Boiler condensate pipe regulations

If you are unfamiliar with condensing boilers, all you really need to know is that they aren’t that different from your regular combi boiler. The difference is in the way the condensing boiler repurposes the otherwise wasted heat discharged from the boiler with the flue gas to more efficiently heat your home.

You could improve the efficiency of a non-condensing combi by installing a Flue Gas Heat Recovery System. These can make a significant difference in both improving the heating efficiency and in turn reducing your home’s carbon footprint. 

How does a condensing boiler work? 

Pre 2005 older models of boilers, the non-condensing kind would lose about half the heat produced as heat contained in the combustion gases exhausted through the flue; which is why the switch to condensing boilers was mandated as the latent heat can be recovered to preheat the cold water coming into the boiler.

What this does is reduce the energy required to heat the water in the boiler. 

Pipe regulations 

If you do have a condensing boiler it helps to be aware of the implementation regulations, especially if your boiler ever runs into trouble during the colder seasons, in most cases this might be a frozen condensate pipe. 

• Possible problems with condensate pipes

More than often, a breakdown with your boiler occurs due to the condensate pipe freezing over when the discharge outlet is fitted externally to your home and is left exposed to the elements. 

It was for this reason that it was strongly recommended by the Heating and Hot Water Industry Council that ‘condensate drainage pipes should terminate at an internal foul water discharge point.’ 

If the layout of your home does not permit this however, the HHIC also states that ‘Where there is no other option than to run the pipe externally, the pipe needs to be increased to at least 30 mm inside diameter and should be insulated to help prevent freezing.

• Boiler condensate pipe regulations for installers

As a homeowner, you could skip this section and move on to the next that concerns homeowners more directly, but we do recommend you have a passing familiarity with the installer’s regulations. 

Usually, the technician will inspect the premises during services or repairs and will confirm with the homeowner whether the condensate pipe can be terminated internally or if it needs special attention to terminate externally. 

The technician should also advise the homeowner on installation regulations, summarised below- 

• Condensate pipes should terminate at gravity discharge points - internal soil stacks are recommended. 

• Wastewater from the kitchen, including the sink, the shower and the bathrooms should also terminate internally. 

• The dimensions and material used also for the external waste pipes need to be taken into account - pipes from kitchen sinks and washing machines should have a minimum internal diameter of 30mm and a minimum of 13mm UV-resistant pipe insulation. 

• The external waste pipe should be cut at a 45-degree angle to help prevent freezing during colder seasons.

• A drain guard needs to be installed at the external outlet to prevent damage from the elements and aerial debris. 

• Boiler condensate pipe regulations for homeowners

Being the homeowner, your technician should provide you with all the necessary information specific to your home upon inspection. 

If you do have an external condensate pipe, let your technician diagnose the situation and advise you on the best solutions to meet regulations. 

• External Pipes 

External condensate pipes are only considered an option if an internal one is difficult or impractical to install, though there are still regulations to keep in mind. 

• Assuming the pipe can only terminate externally, the pipework should run internally as much as possible and have an internal diameter of 30mm with an external diameter of 32mm. 

• The pipe that cuts through the wall leading to the discharge point should be at a slope of at least 3 degrees to maintain momentum as it exits the structure. 

• It is recommended that a soil stack be placed at the external termination point if the discharge system is a combined foul/rainwater discharge system. 

• The technician needs to install the system with external air breaks between the condensate discharge pipe and the downpipe. 

This is to prevent backflows that can cause the pipe to get frozen, flooded or blocked. 

These air breaks can be deemed unnecessary if the boiler’s condensate trap has a minimum condensate seal of at least 75mm

• Frozen condensate pipes 

External condensate pipes are extremely prone to freezing over and it is recommended that you defrost the affected pipework as soon as possible. 

Since this is an external pipe, you could thaw it out with some warm water or a heat pack. Unlike internal frozen pipes, you do not have to be as delicate with the situation. 

Once you have found the blockage and thawed it out, you can restart your boiler. In most systems, this can be done by simply hitting the reset button. 

In the event this does not work, it would be advisable to contact a technician to take a look at it immediately before and damage is done. 

How we can help

Now that you have an overview of the regulations to keep in line with your condensate pipes, you should be well equipped to direct or answer any questions your technician may have for you during repairs or services for your boiler. 

And if you’re looking to have your boiler serviced now or in the near future, then look at our boiler breakdown insurance. 

With our network of professionals across the UK, we can have a local professional at your doorstep in a matter of minutes.

Contact a boiler technician near you

This insurance covers any unexpected problems that may crop up with your system ensuring speed of response in case of emergencies. 

Get your boiler covered

Visit us online for more information on boiler insurance coverage or you can contact us directly if you have any queries related to home emergencies.